Sourdough

Lesson 2: Caring for Your Sourdough Starter

Once you have a vibrant sourdough starter, you will need to feed it to maintain a strong, well-nourished population of microorganisms. This is an easy task to work into your weekly routine.

I like to think of feeding starter as an opportunity to cultivate a unique sort of intimate relationship; your starter is, after all, the foundation of the breads and other foods you will bake. So, now and then, taste your starter. Smell it and touch it, too. Learn how to characterize its good health. This connection, along with your own observations, will help you maintain your starter in top form.

The ideal schedule for feeding starter is one or two days before you plan to bake. I prefer to feed and store my starter in a container I can see through. Glass is better than plastic because this will be the jar you use to store your starter over time and its non-porous surface will prevent the release of toxins into the starter.

The following feeding instructions will give you enough starter to bake one loaf of bread and pizza or another sourdough baked good, with enough left over for making other sourdough baked goods. To get the best result, the water you use to feed your starter should be filtered or bottled.

Feeding Before Baking

One or two days before you bake bread, you will need to feed your sourdough starter in order to give it a strong, well-fed population of microorganisms. You may find it best to feed and store your starter in a container that you can see through. I use a wide-mouth glass canning jar, which allows me to see the starter and measure its growth, or height, using the lines on the jar. Glass is better than plastic because this will be the jar you use to store your starter over time, and its nonporous surface will prevent the release of toxins into the starter.

For years I used volume measurements of flour and water—meaning, I measured by the cup and spoonful— which works well enough. In more recent years, I have appreciated the consistently thick starter I get when I measure by weight. Since starter can have many consistencies and still be healthy, I’ve listed both options below so that you can choose the one you like best.

These feeding instructions will give you enough to bake one loaf of bread, with starter left over for making other sourdough baked goods. For the surest results, the water you use to feed your starter should be filtered or bottled.

1. Stir in or pour off any gray liquid floating on top of your stored starter. Then discard all but 1/4 cup (46 grams) of starter, which you can leave in your jar.

2. Add 2 tablespoons (23 grams) white all-purpose flour and slightly less than 2 tablespoons (23 grams) water to the starter. Mix the starter well and let it sit in a warm spot, covered, for 3 to 4 hours. Your aim is to have the starter double in height before you feed it again. So 3 to 4 hours is a general guide, and the process is flexible. If you have no immediate plans to bake, this is the only step you’ll need to take; you can cover your starter and return it to the refrigerator.

3. If you are feeding starter in preparation for baking, add 1/4 cup (46 grams) white all-purpose flour and slightly less than 1/4 cup (46 grams) water to the starter. Again, mix the starter well and let it sit in a warm spot, covered, for 1 to 2 hours more or until it has doubled in height. If you will use the starter to make Sourdough Wheat and Rye Bread, your feeding is finished because making the levain will stand in for the third feeding. If you have other baking plans for your starter, move on to Step 4.

4. If you are feeding starter to make baked goods other than Sourdough Wheat and Rye Bread, add 1/2 cup (92 grams) white all-purpose flour and slightly less than 1/2 cup (92 grams) water to the starter. Cover the starter and let it sit in a warm spot for 1 to 2 hours before returning it to the refrigerator.

Some bread bakers leave starter on the countertop overnight, but refrigerating it and then bringing it back to room temperature has always worked better for me. In the ideal, you want to bake with starter that is at its maximum height and full of gas. In other words, you don’t want it to collapse back onto itself before baking.

Feeding When You Are Not Baking Bread

If you are taking time off from baking bread or other sourdough baked goods, you should ideally still feed your starter every 10 to 14 days. In this case, follow steps 1 and 2 above. Mix the starter well, let it sit on the countertop for about 1 hour or until it doubles in height, and then return it to the refrigerator.

I have left my starter for two or three weeks when I have had to be away and have had no problems result. There are those who say starter can be successfully frozen, and I have had this work in the short-term. I am not sure if starter would remain viable, however, after being frozen for months.

To better understand the wisdom behind discarding starter, click on this link: The Wisdom of Discarding Starter

If you have questions, email me using the “contact” page of my website and I will do my best to help you.

Copyright, Ellen Arian, Ellen’s Food & Soul

Lesson 3: Recipe for Sourdough Wheat and Rye Bread

People have been baking sourdough bread for as long as they’ve been baking bread at all. If it was really that complex and difficult, it would never have found its way into our modern, convenient times.

This loaf is the one I bake most often; you might call it my signature loaf. It is beautiful and aromatic, and it has a flavor I still crave and enjoy after years of baking and eating it. It’s also a perfect loaf to begin with, to make and make again until you have your technique down.

Photo by Elizabeth Cecil

Ingredients

FOR THE LEVAIN:
1 tablespoon sourdough starter, fed on baking day or on the day before
1-1/4 cups (7 ounces) whole-wheat flour (not pastry flour)
Scant 1 cup (7 ounces) room-temperature filtered water

FOR THE DOUGH:

1 to 1-1/4 cups (8 to 10 ounces) room-temperature filtered water
1 to 1-1/2 tablespoons barley malt
2-1/2 cups (12 ounces) whole-wheat flour (not pastry flour)
1/2 cup (2.2 ounces) rye flour, plus additional for dusting towel or brotform
1/2 cup (2.2 ounces) white bread flour
3 to 4 teaspoons coarse sea salt

Rolled oats or cornmeal for dusting loaf

Special equipment: Heavy lidded pot, ideally cast iron, and at least 4 quarts; single-edged razor blade; spray bottle; parchment paper

Recipe

1. Make the levain. About 10-14 hours before making bread dough, add the ingredients for the levain to a medium bowl and mix well. Cover and let sit at 70-75 degrees.

2. Make the dough. Once the levain is bubbly and well risen, combine it with the flour, barley malt, and water in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer. It works best to hold some of the water back, adding more only as needed. Stir until the ingredients are combined and the levain is dispersed throughout.

3. With your hands or a spatula, mix the dough into a ragged mass, rubbing the newly formed dough against the side of the bowl to pick up any stray bits of flour. The dough should be wet enough that you can do this, and the bowl should be fairly clean when you are through. If it is not, add a spoonful of water or two and pick up any remaining flour. Strive for dough that is on the wet side and tacky to the touch, but not soggy.

4. Cover the bowl and let it sit in a warm spot (ideally 78-80 degrees) for at least 20 minutes or up to 1 hour. For holding the temperature of bread dough in a cool kitchen, I can recommend using a countertop bread proofer. As an alternative, you can use an oven with a “proof” function or one with the interior light left on. With either option, take care that the dough doesn’t get too warm.

5. While the dough is resting, use a generous helping of rye flour to dust a smooth cotton or linen dish towel, one with no texture or pill that will “catch” the dough. Place the towel inside a medium-sized bowl, floured side up. For a simpler approach and a beautiful finished look, you can use a floured brotform. Set the bowl or brotform aside.

6. Add salt and knead the dough for about 10 minutes. If you use your hands to knead the dough, it should be as wet as it can be, yet still dry enough for you to handle. If you use a stand mixer, the dough should be wet enough that it only just clears the bottom and sides of the mixing bowl. Using enough water will ensure a good rise and an open, airy crumb. (Depending on your flour, your dough may need more water than called for in the ingredient list).

7. When you are finished kneading, form the dough into a boule. Invert it so the seam is face up, and place the loaf on top of the towel in the bowl or into the brotfrom. Pinch closed any bottom creases that remain opened. Cover the bowl or brotform and let the dough rise, covered, for 1-4 hours at 78-80 degrees. In the summer or if your room is warmer let it rise for less time, about 1-2 hours. If your room is cooler or your starter less vibrant, compensate by giving the dough a longer rise; in the winter, this rise may take 4 hours or longer.

8. At the end of the countertop rise, transfer the covered dough to the refrigerator. The dough should rise in the refrigerator for another 8 to 36 hours.

9. One hour before you’re ready to bake, place a heavy, lidded pot inside the oven and preheat it to 500 degrees.

10. When the oven is adequately preheated, remove the dough from the refrigerator, dust the surface with rolled oats or cornmeal, and gently invert it onto a piece of parchment paper. (The side with the oats or cornmeal should rest on the parchment, and the floured side will now be the top.) Using a single-edged razor blade, slash the top in a tic-tac-toe pattern with a wide center square.

11. Remove the pot from the oven and ease the bread, still on the parchment paper, into the pot. Then, using a spray bottle filled with warm water, spritz the inside of the pot lid, cover the pot quickly, and place it into the oven for 5 minutes. It’s okay if the top of the loaf gets damp when spritzing.

12. Turn the heat down to 450 degrees and bake the bread for about 35 minutes more. When the bread is ready, it will have a deep brown crust and an internal temperature of around 207 degrees (checking the temperature with a thermometer will not harm the bread in any way).

13. Remove the bread from the pot and let it cool on a rack for at least 1-1/2 hours before slicing. While it’s tempting to slice the bread sooner, the steam contained within the loaf extends the baking. So cutting it before it cools will make the crumb gummy and negatively affect the quality of the loaf.

If you have questions, email me using the “contact” page of my website and I will do my best to help you.

Copyright, Ellen Arian, Ellen’s Food & Soul