Lesson 8: A More Memorable Loaf

Over years spent baking bread, I have discovered approaches that help me consistently turn out more memorable loaves:

  • Making sourdough bread is an art and not a science. As a result, I can’t tell you exactly how long bread dough should rest on the countertop before you put it in into the refrigerator; you will ultimately do it often enough that you will be able to read each dough yourself. I can, however, offer some general guidelines. In cool weather and starting with room temperature ingredients (without measuring precise temperatures), the timeframe from mixing dough through putting it in the refrigerator takes anywhere from 4-6 hours. In contrast, in warmer weather the same process may take a total of 2-4 hours.

  • A long, slow rise gives bread better flavor and a longer shelf-life. You may taste this difference during colder months. And you may feel the difference because when bread is fermented slowly in cooler temperatures it can stay moist and good-tasting for up to a week.

  • When considering water, keep in mind that the best artisan bread begins as relatively wet dough. It is water, as much as the starter itself, that defines the character of sourdough bread. Although differences in the way you shape, proof and bake your loaf can create variations in the crust, it is water—adequate hydration—that facilitates chemical reactions within the dough and creates and defines an open, airy crumb.

  • Early on, I assumed that scoring, making a pattern of cuts on the loaf just before baking, was mostly decorative; observation, reading, and experimentation have taught me otherwise. Those who have given birth to children might rightly consider scoring an episiotomy for the bread. As it facilitates and controls the direction of the rise, it also controls the tear. It works best to score your bread at a relatively shallow angle, about 30 or 40 degrees. So rather than cut straight into the dough, cut just under the crust. For dough that is adequately proofed but still has some rise left in it—in other words, an ideal loaf—you might cut about ½” into the bread. For loaves that are slightly underproofed, cut a bit deeper to encourage the rise. And for loaves that are overproofed, make very shallow cuts or the dough may collapse and not make a full recovery. How do you know whether your loaves are well-proofed? Experience will be your guide. But if a dough is wobbly rather than firm, and if it begins to deflate when you score it, it is overproofed. When this happens, don’t worry. Simply make a shallow score and the loaf will still rise, just not as high as it might have otherwise.

  • I’ve listed measurements first in “cups” and “teaspoons” in order to keep the process familiar and simple, and in “ounces” for more precision. But if you’re going to continue baking sourdough bread, you may eventually refer to the many artisan bread books that have been written. And this, in turn, may leave you feeling overwhelmed by unfamiliar terminology (like the hydration of your sourdough starter) and metric measurements for flour (like grams). Don’t be deterred by language that is new to you. What you have is a 100% hydration starter, which means that you feed it with equal parts water and flour. As for the metric measurements, you can manage them by purchasing a kitchen scale; they sell for under $30 and are easy to use. Simply turn on the scale and put a bowl on top. Push “tare” to bring the weight in ounces or grams to zero. Add the first ingredient until you measure the proper amount, and push “tare” again. Keep doing this. You will appreciate having no more dirty measuring cups and spoons, and you may also appreciate the ease and precision a scale will bring to your baking.

Copyright, Ellen Arian, Ellen’s Food & Soul

Pickle-Making Wisdom

Based on the many summer days I’ve spent making pickles in the kitchen, here are hard-won pickle-making tips:

  • It is best to make pickles from small cucumbers, usually Kirby, that are the freshest you can find. If they were not recently picked, soak them in cold water to revive them. The cucumbers don’t all need to be the same size, but look for the smallest, tightest (meaning, not juicy) cucumbers and forgo those that are large, even if they are labeled Kirby, as you will not get an ideal result.

  • Since proper crunch is essential, it is important to know the secret behind it, which is the leaves you place in the pickling crock with the rest of your ingredients. According to fermentation guru, Sandor Katz, it’s the tannin in these leaves that preserves the crunch. I use fresh grape leaves, but oak, cherry, and horseradish leaves also work.

  • Homemade pickles are fermented, and later preserved, in a salty brine. After getting a batch or two of pickles that didn’t preserve well, I tried making a fresh brine for storing finished pickles. This new brine ruined the pickles as I was never able to attain the correct ratio of salt to water. To avoid the heartache that comes with ruining perfectly good pickles, strain your pickling brine and use it to store your finished pickles.

  • Most pickle recipes call for dill heads; these are flowers that form at the end of dill stalks as they grow in the garden. If you like to grow herbs and you simply allow your dill to go to seed, you will have all the dill heads you need. If you have no garden, you can use a fresh bunch of purchased dill and this will also.

  • Knowing that beneficial compounds in garlic are released when cloves are cut or crushed, I tried cutting the garlic that I added to my brine and this approach ruined several batches of pickles. It is not a good idea to create such a potent garlic flavor if you want to keep your friends and family close to you. Whole garlic cloves give a more pleasing result.

  • Cucumbers are held under weight in the pickle-making crock. It took me years to learn that this weight should not put any real pressure on the cucumbers. On the contrary, it should be placed gently on top as its only purpose is to submerge the cucumbers under the brine.

  • Mold, alas, is part of the pickle-making process. Do not fear it. You can skim and toss it if there’s a lot. As long as mold stays on the surface of the brine and doesn’t touch the tops of the cucumbers, you will get good pickles. When you are ready to store the pickles, skim the mold. Then strain the brine into your storage container.

  • In my New Jersey kitchen, pickles predictably take ten days to mature. You might eat yours earlier or later depending on the flavor you seek. They improve for a time after you store them in the refrigerator. I have had success keeping pickles for a couple of months, but not much longer than that.

Copyright, Ellen Arian, Ellen’s Food & Soul